Four days walking the east side of Tokyo
4 nights · Late October to early December · Medium pace · Mid range
One neighbourhood a day, starting in Asakusa and ending in the quiet museums west of the centre.
Day 1
Asakusa, from the gate inwards
Kaminarimon · Morning · Sight
Go at eight, before the shopping street fills. The lantern is the photograph everyone takes and it is still worth standing under.
Sensō-ji · Morning · Sight
Walk the side lanes behind the main hall. The temple is busy, the streets around it are not.
Kappabashi Kitchenware Town · Afternoon · Walk
A kilometre of shops selling nothing but kitchen equipment. I buy one thing and regret the ten I left.
Kamiya Bar · Evening · Meal
Pay at the counter on the way in, then sit down. Denki Bran, a beer, and whatever the kitchen sends.
- Seen in Time Out Tokyo. Listed as Tokyo's oldest Western-style bar, founded in 1880, known for the Denki Bran cocktail
Day 2
Ueno down to Kanda
Ameya-Yokochō · Morning · Market
Under the tracks, loud, cheap, still a market rather than a photograph of one.
Tokyo National Museum · Midday · Museum
Two hours in the Japanese galleries of the Honkan is enough. The rest will wait for another trip.
Taro Okamoto Memorial Museum · Afternoon · Museum
The artist's house and studio, kept as he left it. Small, strange, and over in an hour.
Isegen · Evening · Meal
Monkfish hotpot, one pot for the table. Only in the cold months, so check before you build a night around it.
- Seen in Time Out Tokyo. Anko monkfish specialist in a building dating from 1930, with a season running September to April
Day 3
Tsukiji, then Nihonbashi slowly
Tsukiji Outer Market · Morning · Market
The inner market moved years ago. The outer lanes still trade, and they are best before nine.
Mitsui Memorial Museum · Afternoon · Museum
Tea ware and lacquer on the seventh floor of an old bank building. Quiet in the way I look for.
Shinjuku Golden Gai · Night · Walk
Six alleys of tiny bars. Some charge a cover, some are regulars only, and the signs will tell you. Read the door before you open it.
Day 4
Aoyama and Komaba
Nezu Museum · Morning · Museum
Go for the garden as much as the screens. It is a whole hillside behind a wall on a shopping street.
Japanese Folk Crafts Museum · Afternoon · Museum
Everyday pots, cloth and baskets, shown as though they were treasures. This is the museum that changed how I shop.
Tokyo Metropolitan Teien Art Museum · Afternoon · Museum
An art deco house first, a museum second. Give the last half hour to the garden.
- Seen in Time Out Tokyo. Explains that Tokyo's old shitamachi neighbourhoods are scattered across the city rather than gathered in one old town