Barcelona in section
4 nights · April to June · Slow pace · Mid range
Four days of Gaudi and the people who argued with him, one building a morning.
Day 1
The big one, and the shed beside it
Sagrada Família · Morning · Sight
Book the first slot. Sit on the east side for the hour the glass turns blue, then move west and watch it go orange.
Sagrada Família Schools · Midday · Sight
A tiny school building with a warped roof made of flat tiles. Le Corbusier drew it. Most visitors walk straight past.
La Pedrera - Casa Milà · Afternoon · Sight
Go for the attic and the roof. The parabolic brick arches explain the whole building in one room.
7 Portes · Evening · Meal
Long dinner, rice, and a room that has seen a century of them.
- Seen in Time Out Barcelona. Listed as an elegant nineteenth-century restaurant serving regional specialities including paella in large portions
Day 2
Two houses and a concert hall
Batlló House · Morning · Sight
The light well is the lesson. Tiles get darker as they climb so the bottom of the shaft is not gloomy.
Casa Vicens · Midday · Sight
His first house, and the least like the others. Tile, brick and a Moorish smoking room.
Palau de la Música Catalana · Afternoon · Sight
Not Gaudi. Domenech i Montaner, and a hall made of coloured glass. Take a tour or, better, a concert.
Restaurant Estevet · Evening · Meal
Short walk, small room, slow food. Nothing here needs explaining.
- Seen in Time Out Barcelona. Listed as a Raval restaurant operating since 1890, known for slow-cooked Catalan dishes
Day 3
A hospital built as a village
Sant Pau Recinte Modernista · Morning · Museum
Twenty-seven pavilions, gardens between them, tunnels underneath. The best two hours in the city and rarely crowded.
Mercat de Sant Josep - La Boqueria · Midday · Market
Go to the back, where the stalls still sell to cooks rather than to phones.
Palau Güell · Afternoon · Sight
Dark, vertical, and the chimneys on the roof are where he first let himself play.
Can Culleretes · Evening · Meal
Two minutes from Palau Guell. Order the cannelloni if it is a Thursday.
- Seen in Time Out Barcelona. Described as Barcelona's oldest restaurant, serving traditional Catalan cooking in the Gothic quarter
Day 4
Montjuic, and one pavilion
Pavelló Mies van der Rohe · Morning · Sight
Small, empty, and worth an hour on its own. Stand where the onyx wall meets the water and do not take a photograph for ten minutes.
Montjuïc Castle · Midday · Sight
Go for the walls and the view back down onto the port, not for the rooms.
Park Guell · Afternoon · Sight
The monumental zone is ticketed and timed. The free woodland above it is where the viaducts are, and they are the better structure.
- Seen in Time Out Barcelona. Time Out's current review list of where to eat in Barcelona, used to check which classics are still open